Basic Applique Instructions

by Simple Pleasures

Applique is fun and easy to do. I use the cut as you go method (no pre-cutting). If this is your first time to do appliqué, here are some tips to help you. If you have the Bernina software, go into print preview and under options, select to print hoop and under size select actual. Then print this out. This will give you an idea how big to cut your fabric pieces (ALWAYS cut bigger than what you need!) You will need 505 spray or something similar. Use stabilizer on your project, just like you would normally. When doing appliqué on towels I use sticky paper on the hoop and over the towel I place a layer of aqua film (I use 505 spray to adhere this to my towel). This will give you a better sew out. On my designs I will use auto appliqué when possible; however, if there is more than one of the same color fabric pieces being sewn down in order, I manually digitize them to save you time when sewing them out. When using a light color fabric, that is sheer/lightweight I place interfacing under it to make it look better and so that other fabric under it will not show through. I use 505 spray between the fabric and interfacing.

In appliqué you always start sewing the back pieces first and work your way to the front of the design. In appliqué always use thread that will compliment your fabric choices, please don’t go by my thread colors. You will also notice that when I manually digitize appliqué that I have to use two thread colors. This is to make the machine stop sewing. You do not need to change thread colors! For example if I am sewing out a heart and the placement thread is 1703 and the tack-down and satin stitch call for 1900, I will use the same color for both.

Example shown below is using the appliqué rooster.

After printing out the preview sheet, look at the thread order at the right hand side of the sheet.

You will notice on the sheet shown, the #1 color is a yellow color and the description will state what piece is to be sewn with it. In this example, the #1 piece is for the beak. I will decide on a fabric choice and then select a thread color to match it. I will then use 505 spray on the back of the small fabric piece. I will place the piece onto the garment or towel and start sewing.

The machine will sew a placement stitch of the piece.

Once sewn the machine will stop, at this time I remove the hoop from the machine and cut very closely around the stitched area.

After the excess is removed, replace the hoop on the machine and finish sewing. It will first sew a tack-down stitch and then stitch a nice satin stitch around the area.

**Please note: in my newer designs I usually don’t sew a tack-down stitch. I have found that it isn’t really necessary and puts extra stress on the fabric (it would be necessary if you were pre-cutting your fabric before the placement stitch). If you have any questions or prefer a tack-down stitch please let me know and I will be happy to add one for you.**

You may notice that on some of the pieces that the satin stitch does not go all the way around the fabric piece. This is OK….it just means that there will be another piece of fabric placed and sewn over that area (it will not show in the end product, it is a way to save thread cost and will not cause large ridges in the finished product.) If auto appliqué was used in the design, the machine will stop after each step (placement, tack-down and satin stitch). You will remove and clip after placement. Once tack-down is finished you can start the machine immediately for satin stitch. If there is more than one fabric piece of the same color to be sewn at the same time, I will manually digitize the appliqué. In the rooster, the red under the beak and the heart are sewn at the same time. You will need a piece of fabric large enough to cover both areas.

**Please note: in my newer designs I do all appliqués manually. I have found that I have much more control over the process and can lower the number of jump stitches.

Once the placement stitch is sewn, remove the hoop and clip fabric excess.

Then replace the hoop and the tack-down and satin stitch will occur without stopping between them. You will notice on the rooster, that the eye is stitched after the black body is sewn. The color of the eye thread is programmed white. This was done on purpose. Making the color white makes your machine stop so you can change thread colors—you can use any color. If however, you want to make it black like I did, the black is already in your machine, just restart your machine.

Once the design is completely sewn you can embellish with a button if desired.

**PES and HUS formats please go by your color sheet for thread colors/color changes. Also, there should be a stop for each thread color I have listed in the color sheet. Sometimes different software will change my thread colors and combine them. If you let me know, I will be glad to fix the problem.

TIPS:

*Some people like to sew the placement stitch on the background fabric before the fabric is placed on top for attaching. This gives them the exact area for the fabric placement. They then place the fabric to be attached on the background fabric and re-sew the placement stitch, trim and process as normal.

*Beware when shrinking appliqué to a smaller size. When you shrink an appliqué, you also shrink the satin cover stitch. You need to go into the design and adjust the satin cover stitch to have a width of 0.10 in (with Bernina Artista software this is done using “Object Properties”). This must be done for every satin cover stitch. The same holds true for enlarging designs also.

*Also, I suggest a test sew of shrank or enlarged appliqués to make sure they sew out ok

If you ever have a question or problem when sewing please let me know!
connie@simpleasures.com